The Whole Process

If you don’t like POWER, GO AWAY!

I will continue to support all members of The Gadgetman Clan (that’s ANYONE who has tried, or is TRAINING, as I have always done, and for as long as you simply ask for my help, no matter the issues you face.

After someone finds evidence of the benefits of the application of The Gadgetman Groove, as this is a wonderful but basically new technology, there’s a lot of curiosity about the whole process. That being said, I thought it might be wise to put together a blow-by-blow description of the modification process. MOST critical to achieving gains is your willingness to change your driving habits a little. (Don’t worry! It’s going to be FUN!)

More on this later…

First, I order a replacement throttle assembly for the vehicle. I use only “A” grade salvage yard parts, so you are guaranteed to get ONLY factory equipment, completely stock (save for the addition of The Gadgetman Groove).

I have the throttle body shipped to me (usually arriving in 3-5 days) when I clean it (I can’t STAND grease!) using a sandblaster when needed. I test its operation and then perform the machine work needed to create the effects, clean it again of all dust and remaining grease, and ship it to the customer. Normal time to delivery is 8-10 days, although sometimes it can take two weeks as in shipments to Canada and Mexico due to customs slow-downs.

Occasionally the ordering process is more complicated and/or expensive. But that’s only like 2 or 3% of the modifications I have performed, so don’t worry. When it costs more, we’ll work something out, as I make a spiritual deposit with every vehicle that receives the tech. I will do everything in my power to see that it’s done, AND you’re happy!

Since we have our Satisfaction guarantee, and only 11 refunds out of over 3,500 engines, you can be sure you ARE going to be happy, too!

When the part is complete and ready to ship, I put it in the box (with a smile!) and send it out to you for installation, along with complete installation instructions. These instructions include direction to “plug the PCV Valve”, which causes some confusion in some cases. Wikipedia has an excellent article on the Crankcase Ventilation System that provides some interesting facts as to its history, as well as providing understanding about how they have worked for over 40 years.

As this system is an “open loop”, that means there is an opening at BOTH ENDS. So, when you stop the vacuum leak that IS the PCV Valve, the blow-by gases are STILL ALLOWED TO VENT, but they are venting OUT the breather hose instead, not depleting that most essential element in fuel economy. RELATIVE PRESSURE. (See Wikipedia’s article on the “Ideal Gas Law” for more information on how this can affect combustion.)

The most critical area where engines lose their fuel efficiency is in the creation of vacuum. The most common degradation is in the operation of the valves. Due to the presence of a compound known as Lac in all crude-based solutions (Motor oil and fuels in particular) it is deposited on all the surfaces it contacts over time. This is lovingly referred to as “Varnish” by mechanics the world over.

As this substance (the foundation for Lacquer) builds up over time, it has a negative effect on valve operation. It builds up on both the valve springs, reducing the tension available to close the valves, AND it builds up on the valve stems. The stems continue to get larger and larger, but the valve GUIDES do NOT! So, over time, they begin to stick and the integrity of the system gradually decreases. When the EXHAUST valves don’t close properly then when the engine enters the INTAKE stroke, it pulls air not from the intake manifold (creating vacuum), but from the EXHAUST SYSTEM which slows the vaporization rate. This, in turn, causes more of your fuel to stay in a liquid state and be unable to mix with oxygen.

And it HAS to mix with Oxygen before it can BURN!

This is why the EPA tells us that 62% of our fuel dollars burn up in the exhaust. (See the page Where the energy goes: Gasoline Vehicles on

By restoring the valves to normal operation, we can then take you to UNHEARD of levels of Fuel Efficiency. (This is a very simple and VERY low-cost process, dealt with at the time of installation.)

ALL vacuum leaks represent a true danger to getting the most out of your fuel. Should your vehicle fail to respond as expected, the cause is almost EVERY time found to be vacuum-related. You have to look at this like a garden hose. Put a pin hole in it and apply 5 PSI of water and you get a drip.

Once The Groove goes in, as it amplifies the pressure differential, it’s like putting 50 PSI on the same hole. You’ll get a stream of water 30 feet in the air! So, a SMALL HOLE will let in a LOT MORE AIR! (If your vehicle is reported to have issues with such things as intake manifold gaskets and injector seals, then this will be discovered in short order.)

Once the leaks are corrected, you will see TREMENDOUS INCREASES in POWER DELIVERY!

Many, MANY engines weaknesses located in the INTAKE MANIFOLD DESIGN. Since switching over to PLASTIC INTAKE MANIFOLDS, this has become almost EPIDEMIC IN PROPORTION!!!
Please search the web for your engine for possible weaknesses in this area and PREPARE TO REPLACE YOUR INTAKE MANIFOLD AND/OR GASKETS IF NEED BE!!!

Here’s where we start to get into the POWER aspect of The Gadgetman Groove.

Many of us have ran premium fuel at one time or another, expecting to get better mileage, only to be disappointed after paying such a high cost. We got NOTHING out of the expense except dashed hopes. Would you like to know WHY???

Here’s another one of the Car Manufacturer’s “dirty little secrets.” It lies in the baseline programming of the ECU.

You see, the buying public spends about 85% of their fuel budget on low-octane fuel, so that’s how the manufacturers set the computer. Lower octane fuel requires a little lead time before the combustion process can get to full speed, so they set the point of ignition WAY too early for my taste! Currently, most cars are set to fire at between 30-35 degrees before top dead center. This means the explosion starts happening as the piston is ON ITS WAY UP, counteracting the forces generated by the OTHER cylinders.

But the ECU is adaptive. This means that it is designed to adjust to varying conditions such as atmospheric pressure, temperature and (Here it comes!)


Since what The Gadgetman Groove accomplishes is making more of your fuel available at the point of ignition, the fuel is more volatile (explosive). But in order for the ECU to RECOGNIZE that, the engine MUST be under a load. It’s at this time it can recognize what is called “Pre-Ignition” and start retarding the timing. This is where the mileage and power really increase!

You didn’t get mileage out of the premium fuel because you still drove like you were running REGULAR! The same thing happens with your Groove installation. In order for you to get the MOST out of YOUR investment, you need to “Drive it like you STOLE it!”

I’m not talking about trying to set any land-speed records you understand. Just start USING the power you PAID FOR when you got your car. Jack-rabbit starts are ENCOURAGED. When going from a 25 MPH zone to a 35, PUNCH IT! Passing gear was MEANT to be USED!

I would like to say that you only have to do this once and the ECU would be permanently programmed, but the plain truth of the matter is that the computer will ALWAYS REVERT TO ITS BASELINE over time. This HAS to be a permanent change in your driving habits or you mileage will start dropping off.

Here’s the really nice thing about this…

The more power you USE, the more power you’ll HAVE, and the mileage will go up right along with it!!!

There’s a lot to cover when we go into diagnostics and helping you get the most out of your investment, but rest assured, if you’re willing to work with me, I will do everything in my power to make your fuel economy dreams come TRUE!!!

Ron Hatton

ron hatton developer of

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